The Bon Vivant of Brooklyn

Canny New York natives are well aware of the area of Fifth Avenue in the Upper East Side that runs alongside Central Park known as "Museum Mile," as they take advantage of the evenings of the week when many of those institutions offer free or pay-what-you-like admission.  About two-thirds of the way up Central Park is a museum of German and Austrian art known as the Neue Galerie - housed in a gloriously restored century old mansion, this museum is quite small, comparatively expensive and does not offer any discounted or free admission; but it more than makes up for that by being home to two hidden dining spots that cannot be missed.  While I didn't have a chance to sample the downstairs cafe at the museum, I did get to try out the first floor cafe (and did so at the behest of a knowledgeable friend).

Master chef Kurt Gutenbrunner is responsible for the Michelin rated Wallse in the West Village, and BlaueGans (Blue Swan) in TriBeCa, and also for the Neue's Cafe Sabarsky (named for a co-founder of the museum).  The museum cleverly repurposes the functional rooms of the mansion - the library is now the bookstore, a small salon is now the design shop, and the cafe is situated in what must have been a den of sorts, as it overlooks the park and is paneled in rich, dark woods; it is an ideal spot to whittle away an afternoon.  Though it can get crowded and noisy during the rush hours, occasional live piano music greatly softens the atmosphere.  Free newspapers and periodicals are also hanging on racks for the enjoyment of patrons, and no server will rush you to leave once you've situated yourself.  The cafe is meant to be a tribute to the great cafes of Vienna, and though I have never been to that part of Europe, I now find myself eager to experience it one day if Cafe Sabarsky is any kind of example.

I started off with a capuccino milkshake that emerged quickly from the coffee bar situated across the room; I must say that I have never before, and not since, had such a delectable coffee drink.  It was not overpowered by sweetness, nor by the richness of the espresso flavor, but was a delicate execution that balanced both in perfect proportion.  As I was also peckish, I ordered the "ham with horseradish" sandwich, which arrived open-faced:  thick slices of ham adorning a dark, dark hunk of bread garnished with their own hand shredded horseradish and pickles and mustard on the side.

But truly, the best reason to come here is for the desserts.  I was compelled to order the Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte, a dessert that is only made on the weekend... chocolate cake with cream and cherries, the seminal "black forest" cake, as it were.  I was not disappointed in the slightest.  Though the cherry taste was not as overwhelming as I've had it from American style desserts, it was still present in a subdued and I think much more pleasant form as the natural taste of the fruit blended softly with the smooth cream and collided with the dark chocolate flavor of the cake and the chocolate shavings atop it.

As a cafe lover, I can't recommend this spot highly enough.  As a dessert lover, I have yet to find comparable fare in the city.  Cafe Sabarsky is an excellent choice for an afternoon respite, brunch with the family, or a dinner date that won't set your wallet aflame (but might do for your companion).