The Bon Vivant of Brooklyn

As we approach Winter in the city, my thoughts turn to some of the trends I've noticed in food and dining - restaurant openings and closures, what's "hot" and "not" and so forth.  So I've decided to start a new quarterly feature highlighting the current gustatory whims of New York, and I'm blatantly stealing a page from WIRED magazine and inventing my own categories:  Gold, Old, and Mold.

GOLD  (indicating the hottest, freshest trends)

Australian - The quest for novel foodstuffs has lead many New Yorkers to the outback; good grief no, I'm not talking about that horrific chain steakhouse - I'm talking Australian national cuisine.  Light-hearted and vivacious Aussie restauranteurs have been opening up new places all over the city:  Kingswood and Tuck Shop in Manhattan, and Wombat in Williamsburg, to name several.  While it remains to be seen whether this trend sustains or is simply the fashion of the moment, there's no doubt that folks are currently intrigued by what comes from down under.

Barbecue - Undeniably the hottest meal ticket in town; literally, if you end up going to Hill Country.  Blue Smoke still rules the roost, but other contenders keep popping up in and around the Meatpacking District, and also notably Fette Sau in Williamsburg.  Also much muttered about:  Mason Dixon in the LES (note mechanical bull in picture).  While there's still no comparison to the real Cue you get much further South, a lot of people are trying very hard to bring that "down home flava" to the big city.  There's no doubt the glistening pulled pork, rubbed spicy beef, gooey sauces, and heaping mounds of side dishes are bringing in the customers!

OLD  (indicating trends on the downturn)

Molecular Gastronomy - I'm actually not sure if this ever caught on in the first place, but it's definitely not something anyone's talking about in restaurants these days.  Maybe it's the high cost of preparation in both time and materials, or maybe it's because people care more these days about actually eating their food rather than staring at it and thinking about how cool their food is.  Presentation and preparation are very important, but nobody wants to see those taken to the extreme.

Sushi - While it hasn't quite reached Mold status yet, sushi is about as commoditized as it gets; it's practically a bodega item at this point, though there are still a lot of folks skeeved out by the idea of raw fish.  It seems like more places are opening with pan-Asian themes, centering on exciting things like noodles and dumplings and pork products of various sorts.  Maybe people are getting a bit tired out by all the rice and nori?

MOLD  (why are we even talking about this?)

Burgers - Remember the $100 burger?  Yeah, me neither.  Who cares about that overly massaged Kobe cow these days?  Everyone's got a burger on the menu now, especially for brunch.  "Sliders" have moved away from the traditional miniature burger to all kinds of other tiny sandwiches.  And if there were a death knell for the burger, the closure of Burgers and Cupcakes on West 23rd would be it.

Italian - I don't think anyone gets excited by the opening of a new Italian restaurant any more.  Which on one hand is a shame, as there's so much to be said for this cuisine, but no one seems to really be doing anything interesting with it these days.  Some restauranteurs will claim regional differences in their menus, but it's rare to find an Italian place with menu items and recipes that venture into uncharted culinary territory.  There definitely needs to be a new Renaissance here - maybe some new kind of fusion with barbecue??

If I had to pick my favorite type of American cuisine, it would have to be Southern style food.  I may be a yankee from the North, but I was raised on Italian food, pasta and meat in crazy portions - not the bland and seafood-centric fare of New England - so I don't think of myself as a New Englander, food-wise.  And while I enjoy Tex-Mex as much as the next guy... I've always had a soft spot for deep fried everything, flaky fruity pies and biscuits, and that mysterious substance known as grits.  I've even been sighted inside Waffle Houses when I'm below the Mason/Dixon.  You just can't beat Southern cuisine's comfort food factor.

And now there's good news for people who share my Southern inclination - a tiny little mecca next to the Wiliamsburg bridge known as Pies n Thighs.  The picture you see here is basically the entire restaurant; it's just a counter with three people crammed in behind it, and it serves up some of the most delicious food I've had since I moved to New York.  And not only is it tasty, it's probably one of the best deals around - I recently had brunch there with three other friends, and we ate a massive amount of food for right around $40 plus tip.

The brunch options are just absolutely incredible.  The huevos rancheros (pictured) are practically pornographic, served with fresh salsa and perfectly cooked beans.  Now it's unfortunate (though understandable given the size of the kitchen), but Pies n Thighs does NOT serve chicken and waffles.  This would be the most perfect of brunch spots if that were the case, but they just don't have a good way to make waffles there.  So they are forgiven for this.  Especially because their fried chicken is completely perfect in all ways.

I may not have done a comprehensive survey of all fried chicken outlets in all five boroughs, but I feel very confident when I say that Pies n Thighs offers the Real Deal ^tm.  And when you order fried chicken, you get essentially half of a chicken, a biscuit as big as your fist (and I've got big fists, check out that pic with the biscuit in it) and two sides - this "fried chicken box" is a mere and unbelievable $8.  And this is the real deal; buttermilk fried chicken covered in crunchy flakes surrounding succulent white and dark meat.  The macaroni and cheese is gooey and filling, made with whole cream, and it's served with splashes of tabasco sauce - and I love this, because it is not optional.  I didn't ask for hot sauce (I would have, of course) but it was put on the mac and cheese because that's how it's supposed to be served.  I'm here to tell you, I am one hundred percent behind this kind of cooking.

Now if good dinner and brunch was all these guys had to offer, it would be enough.  But, as their name implies, they are more than just Thighs... they are also Pies.  Oh, the luscious, luscious pies.  The pie offerings seem to be seasonal, and change regularly - I've seen Key Lime, Pecan, Apple, and Strawberry Rhubarb.  But, my friends, they aren't simply bakers of fine pie - they're also doughnut makers of the highest order.  In fact, their doughnuts won "best of New York" from New York Magazine this year.  You may have noticed donut holes in one of the previous pictures; you should know that those very donut holes are available for FREE at the counter while you await your order.  And you will eat them, because it's likely that your order will take a while as PnT offers delivery, and they're cooking nigh constantly.  They also have a tendency to run out of food at inopportune times, but they are happily attached to a very large and fun looking bar where you can enjoy a few beverages while the meal is being prepared.  And speaking of beverages - do not leave this establishment before trying either the lemonade or sweet tea!  They are drinks not to be missed, prepared in true Southern style!  And I did get confirmation from the bartender that she would happily spike my lemonade or tea if I brought it over from the kitchen side.

What are you waiting for?  Go get you some vittles!

[Where: 351 Kent Ave, Brooklyn, NY 11211]

Get Directions

The title of this post produces images in my brain of some crazy Japanese manga, or Asian film festival reject.  And these recent tentacle pictures you can see at the official blog of Sunday Night Dinner certainly give me good reason.  But the title is also completely descriptive of my evening this past Sunday, when I experienced my very first Sunday Night Dinner with a group of twenty or so very friendly strangers who shared an all-consuming passion for good food.

My girlfriend heard of this tribe when they were featured on a talk show on WNYC, and she immediately contacted organizer Tamara Reynolds, who put us on "the list".  For a suggested donation of $35 each (collected via a kitty and an honor system) and two bottles of wine (one per person) we were treated to a six course meal of epic gustatory proportions.

What follows next is a photo montage that needs no additional words.  In fact, the food was so incredible, it would be difficult to do it any justice with mere words.

What possible excuse could you have for not yet eating at Casellula?  Surely you've heard of it - the "cheese hut", the tiny bistro on 52nd Street, just past 9th Avenue?  It is absolutely imperative that you dine there immediately.  This small wonder is slowly blossoming into a truly fine eating establishment, and you could be experiencing that firsthand!  I've already been there three times, and it literally got better every time I went!

Look, just click on their web site link up there.  It's okay, I'll still be here when you get back.

Did you see that?  They've got 35-40 cheeses from all over the world to nosh on; and believe me when I tell you, that list changes constantly - the web site is not up to date, but it's because they're rotating new cheeses in and out every day.  The wine list is filled with exquisite and expertly picked vintages, and the food menu has literally tripled in size since they first opened.  And now they're starting BRUNCH on the weekends.  Can you feel the excitement?  My hands tremble with delight at the very thought.

I also had no idea that they offered classes and events every Monday night... and the last time I went was just on the Monday when they had "The Cheeses of Louis XIV".  I was disappointed to learn that I'd missed out on that one - but the meal SO made up for my lack of awareness.

My companion and I ordered a plate of four cheeses (they can be ordered a la carte for US$5.00 each or in collections artfully chosen by fromager Tia Keenan - a woman with impeccable taste matching abilities who pairs your chosen cheese with ideally flavored items), a plate of three meats with dijon mustard, a bowl of olives, and some wine.  The selections were as follows:

CHEESE
pau sauvage (spanish herbal goat) - a light and smooth cheese covered with aromatic and pungent herbs, paired with dried cranberries

selerais [?] (grass covered Italian cow/goat/sheep?) - a sweet ricotta-like pressed cheese made earthy by virtue of being wrapped in hay, paired with fresh yellow and red cherry tomatoes

farmhouse cheddar - an exemplar of fine cheddar, paired with sweet zucchini relish

ewephoria sheep gouda - a nutty, parmesean like presentation of a cheese, paired with fried onion crisps and sweet hot mustard

MEAT
smoked goose breast - salty and smoky, almost ham-like taste with a beef texture

wild boar - tender and sweet

duck sausage - delightfullly savory

WINE
Fornace di Cerrito, Barbera d'Asti

And last but not least - we partook of the ultimate Summer dessert: perfection in a champagne flute, the berry buttermilk shake.  A smooth, creamy, frozen mousse-like delight made of buttermilk ice cream and fresh blueberries blended together, and garnished with frozen blackberries and strawberries, each soaked in a different red wine, packing an incredible explosion of flavors within the crunchy, cold, juicy berries.  When you order this dessert, order at least two of them, and thank me later.

I will be going again, and soon, and again and again after that until the place becomes too crowded to enter, as I know it eventually will.  Don't forget to bring cash when you go (though a convenient ATM is located right in the grocery store on the corner of 9th)!

[Where: 401 W. 52nd Street, New York, NY 10019]

East Williamsburg is home to a lot of great eateries, and the main strip in this primarily Italian part of the neighborhood is Graham Avenue (a.k.a. Via Vespucci).  Graham is also the starting or ending point of many parades and festivals over the Summer; really the heart of the place.  To name a few of my favorite establishments: Oak Cafe, Cafe Capri, Carmine's Pizzeria, Tony's Pizza, and Loco Burrito.  There are several places I have yet to try - and there are still more and more places opening up!

Take The Salad Queen, for example.  I swear, I was just walking past the area one day and this joint just popped up out of nowhere.  Located just around the corner from Ralph's Italian Ices, this tiny nook serves custom salads and sandwiches.  I have yet to try it out, but the prices seem reasonable.

One place that I really wanted to like in the area was Satchmo's.  It was a juice bar and cafe, with decent baked goods, and fresh, tasty concoctions, and free wireless.  Unfortunately, it seemed to be badly managed, and the prices were really excessive on some items, and too cheap on others.  It closed down not too long after I first encountered it, to no great surprise.

Since then it's been gutted and cleaned, and papered up.  However, this blogger has nosed around and learned directly from Tony (of Tony's Pizza) who also happens to be the landlord of the building, that a new vegan restaurant will be opening up in that spot!  So keep your eyes peeled for another vegan spot opening up at 347 Graham, right between the burrito place and Tony's.